Cyclone S Diff's

So recently, when my diff needed it, I decided to replace the pulley and balls. except when I went to put the new balls in, they were to small.

So out comes the calipers, and the diff balls measure 2.35mm whereas the pulley hole measures 2.5mm, And I've emailed HB about it with no reply. And that was 2 and a half weeks ago. So, I have decided to try some 2.5 mm balls. and will keep you posted.

Trccc Stock Setup

Changes to normal setup:
2 degrees rear camber.
4.0 gear ratio = 89 spur & 54 tooth pinion
HB S compound tires.

Cyclone S Tips: Speed. When you don't need it.

A stock motor which has high revs/rpms on a machine like the much-more motor master will most likely be useless on the track. The Motor will be likely to have very low torque, which means even though you are revving at 25,000 rpm, you will actually only getting 15,000 rpm when it is in your car because it has to push this heavy car around the track.

To race competitively in stock you need a motor with an in between of torque and rpm.
And motors which are supposed to be competitive on a motor machine when under no load are likely crap on the track.

Also, when a motor is geared in the 4.1-3.9 range, you tend to get it a little bit to hot. So be conservative with your gearing and if its a new motor, gear it below your normal ratio to see whether it needs that higher ratio.

How good is the Cyclone S?

The HB Cyclone S is the best belt drive car in its price range.

It performs well in Prostock or GT19 straight out of the box and with a couple of minor changes, it will perform equally well in stock. The cyclone s is a car with almost everything you need. The only essential part is a set of the front c hubs as the stock ones break quite easily, so order a set of hpi ones, the ones that the Pro4 use and the top end cyclone's use.

The only part that you will need to get the car competitive in stock is a 1 degree rear toe in block. You can either purchase a genuine HB's one or purchase a 3 racing one.

Spec Racing, Is it actually cheap?

Spec racing at a club level is cheap. But as soon as you step above club level, it can become awfully expensive. This is known as check book racing. And to an extent, it doesn't work, but as soon as you couple a big check book or credit card with a skilled driver, you end up with driver's buying 10 or 20 stock motors and running them all in to see which is the fastest, and buying 80 cells at a time to make three battery packs out of. Drivers who are at an event like the North Island champs or the international will also often buy a whole new set of ceramic bearings for their car to make it that little bit smoother.

In reality, you don't have buy 15 new motors and try to find the best one, or buy a set of ceramic bearings for an event, This is just the top guys trying the biggest advantage that they can.

Brushed Motor Break In. Part 2

Continues from last post.

M03 Break In: Bolt brand new motor into M03, Run for 3 hours and 20 minutes in Whangarei Winter 200.

Bushing Break In: Apply Brasso to bushings. run for 3-4 minutes at 3.3v. Clean thoroughly and re oil. You can use this same method for breaking in brushes, just clean regularly and don't apply oil.

Brushed Motor Break In.

Ever wanted to know how to break in a motor? I will not be telling you how you should break in your motor, I will tell you various methods and you can choose for your self.

Method 1: Water dip.

Grab a jar of water. Submerge motor in water completely except for wires. Attach 2-3v power source. Run until brushes are broken in completely. Do Not take out without switching power source off first. Clean Motor with motor spray or co-contact cleaner thoroughly to remove water. Oil Bushings.

Method 2: Dry Run.

Attach motor to 2-3v power source, oil bushings. Leave running 8-12 hours oiling bushings periodically. Clean comm with Brasso and clean motor with motor spray afterwards.

Method 3: Slave Run.

Attach an old motor to new motor via the piece of tube on the end of the motor's shaft. Connect old motor to 2-5v power supply. run for 8-12 hours. Polish comm with brasso. Clean motor with motor spray.

After this all that is left is to install in your car and choose gear ratio, I recommend using a gear ratio that is slightly less than your usual one. And now that you have a new motor with a (hopefully) shiny comm, I recommend cleaning between rounds with brasso. For a gear ratio try, 4.3 or 4.4 FDR.

Also, Clean the bushings and oil them frequently to keep the motor at the top of its speed range.

I will post new and different methods frequently so check back.