Showing posts with label MOTOR. Show all posts
Showing posts with label MOTOR. Show all posts

Monday, March 2, 2009

Sealed Brushed Motors, How to look after them

To keep your silvercan raceworthy, you should keep it regularly cleaned and the bushes oiled. To keep its performance in that just run in state, I also recommend cleaning the comm with some brasso, and to actually run the motor whilst you are doing this, as it brings it up sparkling. The cleaner your motor is the faster it will be, and you will get even better results from it.

The motor will last longer and also if not geared to high, it will be in better condition for torque and be able to give you better push out on the racetrack.

Depending on track layout, the motor will need a FDR of about 4.1 - 3.9, lower number if the track is wide open with few tight bends and higher if the track is tight and twisty like last the WRCCC meet.

You also want to make sure that you break the motor in properly, by following some of the methods posted on this blog.

With several different methods of doing this, it is up to the individual racer to choose how he or she likes to break the motor in. There is no set way of doing it and also, motors are not all the same.

Happy Racing, and I hope to see you at Whangarei Radio Controlled Car Club sometime in the future.

Saturday, January 3, 2009

Cyclone S Tips: Speed. When you don't need it.

A stock motor which has high revs/rpms on a machine like the much-more motor master will most likely be useless on the track. The Motor will be likely to have very low torque, which means even though you are revving at 25,000 rpm, you will actually only getting 15,000 rpm when it is in your car because it has to push this heavy car around the track.

To race competitively in stock you need a motor with an in between of torque and rpm.
And motors which are supposed to be competitive on a motor machine when under no load are likely crap on the track.

Also, when a motor is geared in the 4.1-3.9 range, you tend to get it a little bit to hot. So be conservative with your gearing and if its a new motor, gear it below your normal ratio to see whether it needs that higher ratio.

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Brushed Motor Break In. Part 2

Continues from last post.

M03 Break In: Bolt brand new motor into M03, Run for 3 hours and 20 minutes in Whangarei Winter 200.

Bushing Break In: Apply Brasso to bushings. run for 3-4 minutes at 3.3v. Clean thoroughly and re oil. You can use this same method for breaking in brushes, just clean regularly and don't apply oil.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Brushed Motor Break In.

Ever wanted to know how to break in a motor? I will not be telling you how you should break in your motor, I will tell you various methods and you can choose for your self.

Method 1: Water dip.

Grab a jar of water. Submerge motor in water completely except for wires. Attach 2-3v power source. Run until brushes are broken in completely. Do Not take out without switching power source off first. Clean Motor with motor spray or co-contact cleaner thoroughly to remove water. Oil Bushings.

Method 2: Dry Run.

Attach motor to 2-3v power source, oil bushings. Leave running 8-12 hours oiling bushings periodically. Clean comm with Brasso and clean motor with motor spray afterwards.

Method 3: Slave Run.

Attach an old motor to new motor via the piece of tube on the end of the motor's shaft. Connect old motor to 2-5v power supply. run for 8-12 hours. Polish comm with brasso. Clean motor with motor spray.

After this all that is left is to install in your car and choose gear ratio, I recommend using a gear ratio that is slightly less than your usual one. And now that you have a new motor with a (hopefully) shiny comm, I recommend cleaning between rounds with brasso. For a gear ratio try, 4.3 or 4.4 FDR.

Also, Clean the bushings and oil them frequently to keep the motor at the top of its speed range.

I will post new and different methods frequently so check back.