tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-89481573668935191772024-02-22T06:48:02.430+13:00Cyclone S tipsCylcone S Tips, on how to setup a car to run in the NZ Silver Can Stock Class.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.comBlogger34125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-71029389381425961822009-04-07T20:53:00.003+12:002009-10-07T11:02:02.283+13:00Whangarei Winter 200The Whangarei Winter 200 is an annual endurance race running for 200 minutes. It will be run with M03 chassis again for a second year in a row. <br /><br />Stay tuned for more details and an entry form.<br /><br />Also, Check out the new website at: <a href="http://winter200.wrccc.co.nz">Whangarei Winter 200</a>Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-74423617191008539252009-03-21T20:26:00.002+13:002009-03-27T07:41:32.479+13:00Stock Batteries: Why are they Nicad?Because stock is essentially about running a class which is easy to start in. With Nicads, you can charge them off a 12v car battery using a direct connection. NB: I am not recommending this. They stand up to relative abuse that NIMH doesn't and this abuse would cause NIMH to vent.<br /><br />Also, It keeps the class even. as everybody is limited by batteries which when compared are quite similar. The Abuse that we put our batteries through is quite horrendous. when you look at the recommended charge rate for a 1300mah, 130mah, and figure out that we are charging at 34 times that and then figure out that we are discharging them at about 15 amps, you realize that what ever battery you have will not last long. But NICADs do it the Best. When my father and I came back to racing, the only batteries we had were 1200mah Sanyo Nicads that were 16 years old from when my father raced originally. These had been discharged and well looked after while he was racing, but afterwards they had been sitting in an attic for 12 years and then under a damp house for another 2. We cycled these, with a slow charge rate and they came back to life. These cells then went on to last us another 8 months.<br /><br />If these had been Nimh, and yes I know Nimh were not around in those days, they would be heavy paperweights.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-43490124971427031342009-03-02T21:10:00.003+13:002009-03-27T07:42:04.779+13:00Sealed Brushed Motors, How to look after themTo keep your silvercan raceworthy, you should keep it regularly cleaned and the bushes oiled. To keep its performance in that just run in state, I also recommend cleaning the comm with some brasso, and to actually run the motor whilst you are doing this, as it brings it up sparkling. The cleaner your motor is the faster it will be, and you will get even better results from it.<br /><br />The motor will last longer and also if not geared to high, it will be in better condition for torque and be able to give you better push out on the racetrack.<br /><br />Depending on track layout, the motor will need a FDR of about 4.1 - 3.9, lower number if the track is wide open with few tight bends and higher if the track is tight and twisty like last the WRCCC meet.<br /><br />You also want to make sure that you break the motor in properly, by following some of the methods posted on this blog.<br /><br />With several different methods of doing this, it is up to the individual racer to choose how he or she likes to break the motor in. There is no set way of doing it and also, motors are not all the same.<br /><br />Happy Racing, and I hope to see you at Whangarei Radio Controlled Car Club sometime in the future.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-73121747810393955612009-03-02T21:08:00.002+13:002009-10-07T11:02:32.452+13:00Hi all,<br /><br />Wrccc are racing on the 8th of March at Tikipunga.<br /><br />Classes for Points are:<br />Mini.<br />TT01.<br />Stock<br />Pro-Stock<br /><br /><br />Other classes run if sufficient numbers are available:<br />Mod.<br />GT19<br />F1.<br /><br />To find out more about our club, have a look at the website: <a href="http://www.wrccc.co.nz">Whangarei Rc Car Club</a>Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-91269823733215504982009-01-30T07:53:00.002+13:002009-01-30T07:57:38.029+13:00Cyclone S Diff'sSo recently, when my diff needed it, I decided to replace the pulley and balls. except when I went to put the new balls in, they were to small.<br /><br />So out comes the calipers, and the diff balls measure 2.35mm whereas the pulley hole measures 2.5mm, And I've emailed HB about it with no reply. And that was 2 and a half weeks ago. So, I have decided to try some 2.5 mm balls. and will keep you posted.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-45518790906866128742009-01-18T17:48:00.002+13:002009-01-18T17:51:56.733+13:00Trccc Stock SetupChanges to normal setup:<br />2 degrees rear camber.<br />4.0 gear ratio = 89 spur & 54 tooth pinion<br />HB S compound tires.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-36602951388561596962009-01-03T15:51:00.000+13:002009-01-03T15:51:02.097+13:00Cyclone S Tips: Speed. When you don't need it.A stock motor which has high revs/rpms on a machine like the much-more motor master will most likely be useless on the track. The Motor will be likely to have very low torque, which means even though you are revving at 25,000 rpm, you will actually only getting 15,000 rpm when it is in your car because it has to push this heavy car around the track.<br /><br />To race competitively in stock you need a motor with an in between of torque and rpm.<br />And motors which are supposed to be competitive on a motor machine when under no load are likely crap on the track. <br /><br />Also, when a motor is geared in the 4.1-3.9 range, you tend to get it a little bit to hot. So be conservative with your gearing and if its a new motor, gear it below your normal ratio to see whether it needs that higher ratio.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-71744639097690268622009-01-02T14:50:00.000+13:002009-01-02T08:20:12.844+13:00How good is the Cyclone S?The HB Cyclone S is the best belt drive car in its price range. <br /><br />It performs well in Prostock or GT19 straight out of the box and with a couple of minor changes, it will perform equally well in stock. The cyclone s is a car with almost everything you need. The only essential part is a set of the front c hubs as the stock ones break quite easily, so order a set of hpi ones, the ones that the Pro4 use and the top end cyclone's use.<br /><br />The only part that you will need to get the car competitive in stock is a 1 degree rear toe in block. You can either purchase a genuine HB's one or purchase a 3 racing one.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-10955391895277129752009-01-02T10:35:00.001+13:002009-01-02T10:42:01.242+13:00Spec Racing, Is it actually cheap?Spec racing at a club level is cheap. But as soon as you step above club level, it can become awfully expensive. This is known as check book racing. And to an extent, it doesn't work, but as soon as you couple a big check book or credit card with a skilled driver, you end up with driver's buying 10 or 20 stock motors and running them all in to see which is the fastest, and buying 80 cells at a time to make three battery packs out of. Drivers who are at an event like the North Island champs or the international will also often buy a whole new set of ceramic bearings for their car to make it that little bit smoother.<br /><br />In reality, you don't have buy 15 new motors and try to find the best one, or buy a set of ceramic bearings for an event, This is just the top guys trying the biggest advantage that they can.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-53263413073452622132008-12-03T20:40:00.003+13:002009-01-02T09:26:36.621+13:00Brushed Motor Break In. Part 2Continues from last post.<br /><br />M03 Break In: Bolt brand new motor into M03, Run for 3 hours and 20 minutes in Whangarei Winter 200.<br /><br />Bushing Break In: Apply Brasso to bushings. run for 3-4 minutes at 3.3v. Clean thoroughly and re oil. You can use this same method for breaking in brushes, just clean regularly and don't apply oil.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-13918713862580082372008-12-02T21:30:00.005+13:002009-01-02T09:26:16.867+13:00Brushed Motor Break In.Ever wanted to know how to break in a motor? I will not be telling you how you should break in your motor, I will tell you various methods and you can choose for your self.<br /><br />Method 1: Water dip.<br /><br />Grab a jar of water. Submerge motor in water completely except for wires. Attach 2-3v power source. Run until brushes are broken in completely. Do Not take out without switching power source off first. Clean Motor with motor spray or co-contact cleaner thoroughly to remove water. Oil Bushings.<br /><br />Method 2: Dry Run.<br /><br />Attach motor to 2-3v power source, oil bushings. Leave running 8-12 hours oiling bushings periodically. Clean comm with Brasso and clean motor with motor spray afterwards.<br /><br />Method 3: Slave Run.<br /><br />Attach an old motor to new motor via the piece of tube on the end of the motor's shaft. Connect old motor to 2-5v power supply. run for 8-12 hours. Polish comm with brasso. Clean motor with motor spray. <br /><br />After this all that is left is to install in your car and choose gear ratio, I recommend using a gear ratio that is slightly less than your usual one. And now that you have a new motor with a (hopefully) shiny comm, I recommend cleaning between rounds with brasso. For a gear ratio try, 4.3 or 4.4 FDR.<br /><br />Also, Clean the bushings and oil them frequently to keep the motor at the top of its speed range.<br /><br />I will post new and different methods frequently so check back.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-58591456904062923112008-11-26T16:15:00.003+13:002008-12-02T21:22:09.981+13:00Stock Driving.In Stock, you need to drive so that you are getting around the corners with as much speed as possible. You want to drive so that you are making the corners as straight as possible and so that are taken without slowing down your car to much. See the video below for an example. Video from <a href="http://rcracer.co.nz">Rcracer.co.nz</a> <embed src="http://images.video.msn.com/flash/soapbox1_1.swf" width="432" height="364" id="vljmoo32" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullScreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" pluginspage="http://macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer" flashvars="c=v&v=0ca4e8bd-4a0d-426d-923c-c6ce3119fa9c&ifs=true&fr=shared&mkt=en-US"></embed><noembed><a href="http://video.msn.com/?mkt=en-US&playlist=videoByUuids:uuids:0ca4e8bd-4a0d-426d-923c-c6ce3119fa9c&showPlaylist=true&from=msnvideo" target="_new" title="HD international Stock Misc 3">Video: HD international Stock Misc 3</a></noembed>Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-84549543515610152912008-11-24T16:50:00.004+13:002008-12-02T21:22:49.203+13:00HPI Spring Rate Chart<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9RO1IeI0sqGXjWFyy69cjk0ptasUf8H3Yud8dImxRDOPysBVUMhbyLlaIdfpoU4RQKGkQbSaXbxUqKuMW4mg6JDbGGS6dEsdiy6nPM48qARabCmSekEfq81_rTd-Bh9H3JDWs1nxyArk/s1600-h/I-6751-2-V9-Color.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 247px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9RO1IeI0sqGXjWFyy69cjk0ptasUf8H3Yud8dImxRDOPysBVUMhbyLlaIdfpoU4RQKGkQbSaXbxUqKuMW4mg6JDbGGS6dEsdiy6nPM48qARabCmSekEfq81_rTd-Bh9H3JDWs1nxyArk/s320/I-6751-2-V9-Color.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5272066802697886306" /></a><br />This is a chart of the different weight shock springs that you can get for the cyclone s. The springs that come with the car are 8.6 weight.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-40092592326399750652008-11-20T19:29:00.002+13:002008-12-02T21:23:11.696+13:00RC Beginner Tips and Tricks.To a beginner RC car racer, the first race meet can be daunting. But it doesn’t have to be. I recommend that if you are feeling unsure about your car or something to do with the racing, you ask someone, usually one of the guys who bring everything but the kitchen sink to race days as they will usually be able to help you. <br /><br />If you are racing stock or another class with adjustable chassis, I recommend asking one of the top guys, mentioned above, to help you with setup changes and to get your car handling right. They should be happy to help you, but sometimes this is not always the case. If they aren’t happy to help, try some one else who races that class.<br /><br />The most important thing to remember is to keep your cool and you’ll be winning races in no time!Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-34948074617137849332008-11-19T14:02:00.002+13:002008-12-02T21:23:53.561+13:00RC HandlingIf your car isn't handling properly at the track that you race and you want to know why, then you might want to have a look at the link below.<br /><a href="http://users.telenet.be/elvo/">RC Car Handling</a>Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-37811673516013096382008-11-18T09:09:00.003+13:002008-12-02T21:24:06.239+13:00Stock Ratios<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjodmXMl2iGYiYz8UmaP5dcEJn4CNdfPSC5dYtKt7pVaYnu2uatJ8BkJFGjKU4UsPGBw6bTQL6Eh4a1oXDxFSKPsb9jKGAIA0dg7pTa8Z-noxV1ZlBtc3p0Ie4ArHfMimNMnOIEPUykqiA/s1600-h/cycloneratio.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 184px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjodmXMl2iGYiYz8UmaP5dcEJn4CNdfPSC5dYtKt7pVaYnu2uatJ8BkJFGjKU4UsPGBw6bTQL6Eh4a1oXDxFSKPsb9jKGAIA0dg7pTa8Z-noxV1ZlBtc3p0Ie4ArHfMimNMnOIEPUykqiA/s200/cycloneratio.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5269721431020674354" /></a><br />Here is a table of ratios for racing in the stock class. The one in red is the one that I was running, whereas the one in blue is the one that I am running.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-20561098972275340442008-11-17T11:34:00.004+13:002009-09-18T08:45:21.572+12:00Stock racingStock racing is all about driving. There is me, and then there is Luke. Our cars are identical speed on the straight. So therefore it proves the fact that in controlled racing, like stock, you have to have a good car setup to win. Now, my setup, as you have previously seen, allows me to competitively compete. So what’s the problem? Its not speed, its not setup, well it might be setup, but more on that later. It’s driving skill. I have only been racing in the stock class for 6 or so months. Luke has been for 2 years. It’s all about driving, if you went to the nationals, and the top guy, who had qualified 1st for the finals had to give you his setup, and you had the best motor in your car out there, you most likely would still finish below him. Why? Because these are the people who have been driving for 5 or 10 years and have the accumulated skill. <br /><br />You may ask, Why bother going to a national or regional event, if you’re only going to be fighting for 14th or 15th place. Well, accept it. Go, have the experience and gain the track time. Who knows, you might even have some one there that is about the same skill level as you and you can have a great battle with them for 5th or 6th place. At the 2008 HD/RL International, held at NHRCCC, I was racing TT01, and I was evenly matched with Barry. It was the last final, and we were on the second to last lap. As I had been unable to complete the prior race, I had a little bit more grip left on my tires. I passed him on the chicane, and the pressure was on to keep infront of him for the last lap. Knowing that I would need it, I had skimmed my motor earlier on in the day and it gave me slightly more acceleration which, by the end of the straight, equaled about 2 metres. Having slightly more grip allowed me to get round the tight bits a little faster. But then, disaster struck, at the top of the chicane, I hit the curb. Fortunately for me, Barry, was still a couple of corners away. And with his worn tires, he wasn’t able to catch enough time to pass me. I maneuvered through the chicane and around the last corner and nailed it. Full Noise under the transponder loop and with Barry about 20cm behind. This is one of the reasons that I keep going back to these meetings.<br /><br />Also, it could be that your setup is causing your car to be slightly slower through the corners. If this is the case, talk to the guys that keep winning, find out what caster and toe in settings they are using and change the car to these. If it improves the cornering, keep it. If it decreases the handling, go back to your old setting. Remember, change one thing at a time, and always write down what the car was set up to before.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-1873002370096122442008-11-16T15:46:00.003+13:002008-12-02T21:24:33.482+13:00Cyclone S Stock SetupFor my setup, I am running a gear ratio of 4.206 or 4.254, equaling a 88t Spur to 51t pinion or a 89t spur to a 51t pinion. I am going to try the latter gear ratio at club next weekend to see if it is competitive, and hoping so, it will give slightly more run time, as even with the use of the SSS Racing Motor Cooler, (site to be online soon), It is still a little to hot at the end of the race.<br /><br />The Camber is set to 1 degree all round, and the toe in is set to 0 on the front and 1 at the back. Front shocks: Top, third hole in, Bottom, 2nd hole in. Back Shocks: Top: 3rd hole in, Bottom: Middle Hole.<br /><br />Shock Oil. All Shocks are filled with the standard shock oil supplied with the car. If I can find out the weight of this, I may go down slightly to get better cornering.<br /><br />Tires: These are currently HB Standard slicks, but probably going to get some 26 degree slicks.<br /><br />Weight. My weight, all 58 grams of it, is all positioned at the front of the car.<br /><br />Motor: Johnson RS540, with a 3 racing fan Heatsink<br /><br />Speed controller: Mtroniks Tempo11. Soon to be upgraded to a IP6 Sport as the Tempo11 is going into my F1.<br /><br />Radio gear: 27 MHZ with Futaba 2PL hand piece and HPI micro receiver.<br /><br />Servo: Futaba S3003, Possibly being upgraded to Tower pro MG995 metal geared.<br /><br />Well thats about it for the stock setup, Batteries are the same as they always have been, Sanyo 1300 SCR's and if I need another pack I have a Panasonic 1400 SCR side by side.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-29251094144741810392008-10-02T13:55:00.003+13:002008-12-02T21:25:19.947+13:00Computer PSU ConversionA computer power supply is a dedicated power supply. It may be for running a computer, but you can harness this and modify it to run your chargers and other items that need a 12v source to run. Also, because it has a 5v rail, you can use it to test out radio gear such as servos and receivers and use the 3.3v to run your motors in. (do not do this if you are not confident in the voltage produced by the psu/power supply. If unsure DO NOT ATTEMPT. This Blog is intended to help. Any damage to your equipment/self will be solely your fault and will not be the responsibility of this blog.)<br /><br />Parts List:<br />Equal or Bigger than 300w Power Supply<br />1x Green Led<br />1x Red Led<br />5x 10ohm 5w resistor<br />SPST toggle Switch<br />1x 1/4w 510 ohm resistor<br />1x 1/4w 100 ohm resistor<br />3x Black Binding Post<br />3x Red Binding Post<br />Super Glue<br /><br /><br />Step One: Find a suitable p.s.u. It should have 10 amps or above on the 12v rail. Depending on the charger that you use, you might need more than this.<br /><br />Step Two: Check the wiring on it. It should have a 20 Pin Connector that usually goes to the motherboard. Now check whether or not it has a brown wire connected to an orange. If it does remember which wire it is. If not, continue on to the next step.<br /><br />Step Three: <span style="font-weight:bold;">Make sure the 240v lead is unplugged and power supply has been sitting for a while</span> Open the case up. Locate the PS On wire, usually green or grey. Cut this off at approx 5cm from pcb. Remove all unneeded <br />wires, except for the Standby power, usually Purple, 2x Red +5v wire, 4x Black/Gnd wires. Cutoff -12v (dark blue) -5v (white) All except one Yellow/+12v and all all except one +Orange/3.3v (if there was a brown wire connecting to a 3.3v wire before removing the 20pin plug, leave 3cm of another 3.3v wire connected and connect this to the brown wire.)<br /><br />Step Four: Put heatshrink on to the green wire and solder one side of switch attach a black wire to the other side.<br /><br /><br />Step Five: Solder the Orange and Brown wires together if present. <br />Solder the 5w Resistors together in Parallel, and put heatshrink on One of the Red wires and One of the black wires. Attach wires to the the resistors and shrink heat shrink.<br /><br />Step Six: Drill Holes for binding posts, the switch and LED's and bolt in binding posts and switch.<br /><br />Step Seven: Solder remaining wires to the binding posts, black to black, yellow to red, red to red and orange to red. Slide in LED's and apply a drop of super glue to the base to hold it in. Leave for ten minutes to dry throughly. Also if you want you could put some epoxy around the base of the led to anchor it better. Solder the 510 ohm resistor to the negative leg of the Red LED and attach to one of the ground binding posts. Attach positive to the 12v binding post. Attach 100 ohm resistor to the negative leg of the green led. Attach to one of the ground binding posts. Attach the Purple wire to the positive leg.<br /><br />Step Eight: Put it all back together. Make sure that the case is closed before trying to test as you can easily brush something and get a nasty zap. Switch it on, and if the secondary switch is off, the green led should only light, but if it is on, the red and green should both light and the fans should go. Test that you have got the correct voltages with a multimeter.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-24160843094777416752008-10-02T13:42:00.005+13:002008-12-02T21:25:26.376+13:00Cyclone S Stock Setup<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVpPOOVFgVRJCYlrxU9neUJInNCsglENyuz6RCLJTnw9qw7vVxt_79Ie3MN0DRvtT7cC9AnDqqT36fG9BMggyMhdvphLHB-ShaDXHN6ppl6j_HArr9k7Z1E9mg5kn4yJV_6NBQ3iwjx7s/s1600-h/Cyclone_blank.gif"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVpPOOVFgVRJCYlrxU9neUJInNCsglENyuz6RCLJTnw9qw7vVxt_79Ie3MN0DRvtT7cC9AnDqqT36fG9BMggyMhdvphLHB-ShaDXHN6ppl6j_HArr9k7Z1E9mg5kn4yJV_6NBQ3iwjx7s/s200/Cyclone_blank.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5252351269283879538" /></a><br />Here is a setup sheet detailing the basic stock setup for a Cyclone S at WRCCC. This setup is what suits my driving style and also what I think makes the car handle well. On the handpiece, the EPA is set to 100% out of a possible 120% and the Dual Rate is set to 58% of a possible 120%. Throttle is set to Maximum. There is also a heatsink and fan on the motor to keep it cool.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-15318629715640262752008-09-03T20:29:00.005+12:002008-12-02T21:25:32.772+13:00Regular MaintenanceIn order to keep your car in top racing order, you need to regularly clean the motor and clean the diffs after ever 10 runs. The Cyclone S needs these regular diff rebuilds because of where the diffs are located and the fact that they have no cover on them at all. <br /><br />Fortunately the diffs are easy to get to and rebuild and it should take only about 15 minutes per diff to get it out of the car, rebuild it and reinsert it. The Cyclone S suffers from the problem that the plastic outdrives are known to melt, and also for the middle shaft that makes the diff spin snapping, leaving you with a 2wd drive car.<br /><br />The other reason for regular diff rebuilds is the fact that once the grease evaporates out of the diff, or is absorbed into the plastic, it tends to get dirt inside it. This leads to worn diff pulleys and the your diff balls being flat spotted.<br /><br />Therefore when rebuilding differentials you need to make sure that they are completely clean and are free of any grit.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-738211144801824212008-08-20T17:51:00.002+12:002008-12-02T21:25:38.378+13:00Whangarei Winter 200The Whangarei Winter 200 was a very successful event. We had 8 Teams show up to race for 3 hours and 20 minutes. The winners were Craig Pullar, Kelvin Chapman and Colin Storey. <br /><br />The race itself was held indoors at the Whangarei Indoor Cricket pavilion on Astro-Turf or Artificial Grass. It was run successfully using Dargaville RCCC's Infrared Transponder system. <br /><br />The Race was very close with only a margin of 10 laps separating the race leaders and the second place getters who were: Stuart Cooper, Dave Blowers and Cody.<br /><br />And when you are racing in an enduro, the difference between a Win and a 2nd can be a bad pit-stop.<br /><br />The Race ran without a hitch, with every competitor getting a competitive stock motor, and being competitive.<br /><br />Race on!Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-51723844659909733622008-08-12T20:02:00.003+12:002008-12-02T21:25:42.463+13:00Driver EtiquetteDriver Etiquette is something which is often talked about.<br /><br />If you have good driver etiquette then,<br />If you take somebody out, you say sorry and wait for them to be turned over.<br />You don't purposely take somebody out to get around them.<br />You pull over, or hold your line when somebody is lapping you.<br /><br />Basically drive cleanly and have fun. And remember, transponder systems will catch you if you jump the track.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-61977215482562146052008-07-30T20:33:00.006+12:002008-12-02T21:25:48.717+13:00Cyclone S Tips: Drive to Win!"To finish first, first you must finish." <br /><br />This saying is one all to commonly used. And with good reason.<br /><br />If you can drive reasonably well, and you keep clean lines and don't crash, there is no reason why you can't win. As long as you are of competitive speed and are able to drive reasonably well, you should be able to WIN!<br /><br />No matter how good the top guys are, they always will occasionally slip up and will crash or have a breakage, and if you are there to seize this opportunity it will give you a chance to win. It takes me back to one race that I ran in. I had made some silly mistakes, slipping from 1st to 3rd, and there was only 30 seconds to go. Fortunately for me, the guy that was in 2nd was not so far away from me and I managed to get past, and remember, this is spec racing, at the time it was with TT01's in the NZ Tamiya TT01 class. The guy in 1st was half the track away from me. But then his transmitter batteries went flat. And because he uses Ni-Cad rechargeable batteries, he had no prior warning before the race. And because of his mistake, I was able to catch him in the middle of the straight and get round to lap counting to finish first.<br /><br />Also, in Stock, once you get the car handling right, Leave It! and if you are going to change the setup, make sure that you've recorded what the setup was previously. <br /><br />When driving, also try to keep as much speed on in the corners as possible in Stock.Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8948157366893519177.post-20752532231201915622008-07-20T16:29:00.003+12:002008-12-02T21:25:55.249+13:00Cyclone S Tips: Motor Cooler.This is my home built motor cooler.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp1XPdoXoKVNeaQW4iuWSEDwS9o3hAbM0lNk4ByKAawD1SHs-E6oGU9_SEQegDbMA9iSoEkQCzYF35Kw9hkjZMgBEoVhZc-vsBEWxBqZk8UU8XmUUh9rGn2nVT8s4EotiAXXSIIr_dnyg/s1600-h/Motor+Cooler2.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp1XPdoXoKVNeaQW4iuWSEDwS9o3hAbM0lNk4ByKAawD1SHs-E6oGU9_SEQegDbMA9iSoEkQCzYF35Kw9hkjZMgBEoVhZc-vsBEWxBqZk8UU8XmUUh9rGn2nVT8s4EotiAXXSIIr_dnyg/s200/Motor+Cooler2.jpg" border="0" alt="Motor Cooler"id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5224949298307666898" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6p2yrVnWEYsEmRxOVR8xULz-fgdomeg0udt9hulSqHxvOgvennCBBfB-QOJ16ZMO3QFJZ35h7ki0ULCokpiljYyd-g7T7PBbDsBH58LvmNIMxkt3xhv3KEw_mGhaJmsEVlyPNqPxx254/s1600-h/Motor+Cooler3.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6p2yrVnWEYsEmRxOVR8xULz-fgdomeg0udt9hulSqHxvOgvennCBBfB-QOJ16ZMO3QFJZ35h7ki0ULCokpiljYyd-g7T7PBbDsBH58LvmNIMxkt3xhv3KEw_mGhaJmsEVlyPNqPxx254/s200/Motor+Cooler3.jpg" border="0" alt="Motor Cooler"id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5224949301743949362" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWdkzeJ-uMwt-7TzXRJIU0I7t5sEfHwU7BpsWno8jdKuTq1mmKnO-5zpcoQEzLABT8KJ8mL68rUPicWI2Ri1qEeC83LM9fdVM8ul9PY-Uxa3mK8VK_WldWicWYCHJ2gwSNfF49nLJ7u3A/s1600-h/Motor+Cooler.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWdkzeJ-uMwt-7TzXRJIU0I7t5sEfHwU7BpsWno8jdKuTq1mmKnO-5zpcoQEzLABT8KJ8mL68rUPicWI2Ri1qEeC83LM9fdVM8ul9PY-Uxa3mK8VK_WldWicWYCHJ2gwSNfF49nLJ7u3A/s200/Motor+Cooler.jpg" border="0" alt="Motor Cooler"id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5224949303683621266" /></a>Matt Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08655504392822093483noreply@blogger.com0